Short Graduated Bob
Step by step guide on how to cut a short graduated bob, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
The short graduated bob is an absolute alltime salon great that teaches the need for balance and consistency in graduation. This cut uses a soft blend of rounded graduation, contrasted with triangles of variable length and even weight running throughout the perimeter to maximize head shape and movement.
Before: Red, before the cut.
Step 1: The sectioning for the short graduated bob works with a classic horse shoe section, running all the way around to the back.
Step 2: This section works in a curve all the way through the back. Be aware of the hair growth patterns.
Step 3: Take a diagonal section in the front hairline and point cut a line below the cheek bone that runs to the mid-ear, using your comb as a guide.
Step 4: Then check this section in your fingers, using a pointing technique to refine. Notice Stacey's longest point is in the front of the section, framing the face.
Step 5: Then take a parallel section and comb it over the initial section. Then take away the small area behind the ear. Cut this section on the skin using the underneath as a guide.
Step 6: Next, elevate this second section to refine, placing a fraction of graduation throughout the outline.
Step 7: Continue with parallel diagonal sections, removing the hair around the ear from each section. This will ensure sufficient weight behind the ear.
Step 8: Repeat this process on the second side.
Step 9: Now, re-section the second side area and continue into the nape, using the front as a guide and a small amount of elevation.
Notice how Stacey angles his fingers to create a tighter graduated shape. It is important that the fingers do not run flat to the head but angle towards the nape to maximize length over the ear and to enhance head shape through the nape.
Step 10: Continue with parallel sections to the centre-back.
Step 11: Then cross check your work in the opposite direction, technically and visually.
Step 12: Repeat this process on the second side.
Step 13: Having completed both side areas, check through the centre-back, refining the round head shape.
Step 14: Now refine the outline perimeter using freehand techniques to softly blend, being mindful of the natural hair growth patterns.
Step 15: Next, bring down the top area. Create a diagonal section across the head from offcentre front to just in front of the ear. Using the underneath sections as a guide, together with elevation, over-direction and angling your fingers from long to short, cut a line maintaining the length through the perimeter.
Step 16: Continue with parallel sections, applying the same process, being careful to maintain length. You are not rounding this section, but creating a triangle of length.
Step 17: Now work these sections over the crown.
Step 18: Repeat this process on the second side.
Step 19: Using freehand techniques, refine the longer areas through the front.
Finish: A soft blend of rounded graduation, contrasted with triangles of variable length and even weight running throughout the perimeter and maximizing head shape and movement.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also:
How to cut a short wavy wedge with graduation
How to cut a modern short haircut with graduation
How to cut a short graduated haircut with disconnection