Short Graduation

Step by step guide on how to cut a modern haircut with the short graduation technique, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com

Here we re-visit the short graduation - a versatile foundation technique with a basic but modern shape, requiring strong discipline and a methodical insight towards simplicity.

Before: Imina before the cut.

Short hair with graduation - How to section the hair

Step 1: Sectioning. Take a section from the top of the ear to above the occipital bone. Then take a section from above the temples in a V-shape, running to a point on the previous section. This sectioning allows you to break down the haircut into manageable parts, which can then be easily blended.

Short hair with graduation - How to start the haircut

Step 2: Start with a centre section in the back, from the crown to the nape. Pull the hair out and slightly down, with the fingers angled towards the nape.

Short hair with graduation - Check cutting line for accuracy

Step 3: Next check the line for accuracy as this first section provides balance for the entire shape.

Short hair with graduation - Create graduation towards the nape

Step 4: Continue taking approximately 4 to 5 parallel sections to where the head rounds, using over direction, to create a flat internal shape which graduates towards the nape. Please note you will attend to the outline at a later stage, assessing weight required for the outline shape.

Short hair with graduation - Cutting process

Step 5: Repeat this process on the second side.

Short hair with graduation - Cross check and refine

Step 6: Next cross check your work horizontally and refine where necessary.

Short hair with graduation - Create a curved internal shape

Step 7: Now return to the parallel sections, working to the back of the ear. As you work this area, pivot the sections upwards. Use overdirection to maintain weight around the back of the ear. This creates a slightly curved internal shape which gets longer towards the back of the ear.

Short hair with graduation - Cut the second side

Step 8: Repeat this process on the second side.

Short hair with graduation - Cross check the cut

Step 9: Next, cross check your work diagonally to refine.

Short hair with graduation - Blend the back and the sides

Step 10: Now bring down both side sections. Beginning with the left-hand side. Work vertical sections, using the previously cut section as a guide. These sections are a continuation of the underneath sections. As demonstrated, the sectioning allows you to blend the back and the sides fluidly.

Short hair with graduation - Create gentle roundness

Step 11: Continue with parallel sections to the back of the ear, working with over direction and a curved internal shape. Please note Stacey is using a more acute elevation to create a gentle roundness through the top.

Step 12: Repeat this process on the other side.

Short hair with graduation - Follow the curved internal shape

Step 13: Return to the first side and work vertical sections to the top of the ear, using a small amount of over direction and following the curved internal shape.

Short hair with graduation - Cross check the side

Step 14: Crosscheck the side area.

Short hair with graduation - Pivot the sections

Step 15: Next, continue with your sections, working towards the front. As you work down the line, pivot the sections from vertical to horizontal, using increasing elevation to maintain weight around the outline.

Short hair with graduation - Cut the other side of the hair

Step 16: Repeat this process on the other side.

Short hair with graduation - Point cut a curved outline

Step 17: Now dry the hair and point cut a curved outline from the nape to the back of the ear, then continue this line to the front.

Short hair with graduation - Point cut the other side

Step 18: Repeat this process on the other side.

Short hair with graduation - Bring down the top section

Step 19: Next, bring down the top section. Work with a central section from the crown to the front hairline, over directing back and creating length in the front.

Short hair with graduation - Cut parallel sections

Step 20: Continue with parallel sections throughout this top section.

Short hair with graduation - Refine the shape of the cut

Step 21: Refine the shape by rounding the corners, then blow dry the shape.

Short hair with graduation and modern shape

Finish: Short Graduation, a versatile foundation technique with a basic but modern shape.

Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!

See also:

How to cut a short graduated bob

How to cut a graduated bob with an asymmetric feel

How to cut a one length bob