Short Wavey Wedge - How To
Step by step guide on how to cut a short wavey wedge from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
Of fundamental importance here, we have graduation in its purist form. This work is rich in technique, and a modern shape referencing the firefly. Mastering this technique will teach essential discipline.
Before: Lauren before the cut and color.
Step 1: Create a top section that runs equally from both temple areas along the contour of the head into a point on top of the occipital bone. This is then divided into two parts. Create a triangle in the back.
Step 2: Create a rectangle in the front. Two sections are created in order to accommodate the angle of the head and allow for more accurate over-direction.
Step 3: Leave out the first section that is taken just in front of the ear. Leaving out this section will allow you to add strength to the shape at a later stage.
Step 4: Next, take horizontal sections working up the head, pulling the sections down. The first section is slightly elevated to initiate the internal graduation. Subsequent sections are elevated a fraction and overdirected downwards.
These front sections are only cut to a dividing line central to the ear. This helps place the positioning of graduation throughout the side areas and establishes your guide.
Step 5: Apply the same technique to the other side, remembering to leave out the first section.
Step 6: Now, move to the back area and take a diagonal section from the previous horizontal section. Take a piece of hair from above the ear incorporating some of the front and back and twist the hair so your fingers are parallel to the section in the back.
The degree of this section is determined by head shape and hair line. Principally this concerns itself with following the shape from front to back.
Step 7: Continue with parallel sections using the front horizontal sections as a guide and ensure to over-direct forwards and down. The degree of graduation can be varied according to your desired shape, elevation and movement.
Step 8: Once 50% of this side is completed, move to repeat the process on the second side. This assists in obtaining a balance in the graduation.
Step 9: Now, go back to the first side and continue, but leave two final sections out.
Step 10: Repeat this process on the second side until all sections are completed. Then finish the original first sides sections. Then crosscheck diagonally. If there are mistakes, stop and revert to the original technique.
Step 11: Next, refine the outline with clippers and a small amount of clipper over comb.
Step 12: Now, work from the cheek bone to the top of the ear when cutting the first left out section using the points of the scissors. Then move the opposite direction towards the eye.
As previously stated, leaving this section out will allow you to add strength to the shape. Now refine using mini clippers.
Step 13: When working the top, use the front and rear sections together to achieve a through line. The sections you take must be parallel to the underneath. When cutting use the underneath as a guide and leave 5mm of extra length.
Step 14: When working the back, ensure your fingers are parallel to the underneath sections. Try not to damp down unless necessary (if you do, do it evenly) as this can distort your vision of the shape.
Step 15: All sections follow this routine, gradually gaining length as you work up the head and remembering to pull the hair towards you. Therefore, every parallel 1cm section you take is 5mm longer than the previous and this builds up the weighty shape.
You will notice that eventually your final section is far longer than your first as every section is 5mm longer. Be aware of this. Too many sections means the top is too long. Too few sections means the top is too short.
Step 16: Once this process is completed, move to divide into the original sections. Only cutting the original back triangle section, over-direct to the opposite side, cutting to the same sequence and leaving an extra 5mm of length on each section. This will give you perfect balance.
Step 17: Finally, cross-check the top which will achieve a smooth line.
Finish: A classic, yet modern short haircut. This is graduation in its basic form. It is rich in technique and graphic in cut.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also:
How to cut a short graduated bob
How to cut a balanced round graduation
How to cut a short Debbie Harry influenced hairstyle