Short Flat Graduation
Step by step guide on how to cut a short men's haircut with flat graduation, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
This short men's haircut is a flat short graduated shape referencing basic barbering techniques, resulting in a neat tailored backdrop with flexible, moveable over-hanging lengths for diversity of style.
Before: Jack before the cut.
Step 1: Start with a vertical section in the side and work a tight square shape with the fingers. This initial line will provide a guide for later blending. Note that Stacey chooses to work his section in two parts, starting with the top and working down to maintain angle accuracy.
Step 2: Continue with parallel vertical sections towards the front hairline, being careful to maintain your square finger angle in relation to the side of the head shape. This results in a flat graduated side area.
Step 3: Check your work visually. Be careful to check the shading which can indicate weight distribution, especially with barbering. Please note the squareness of both the vertical and horizontal aspects.
Step 4: Repeat this process on the other side. Take care to adjust your body and finger positions accordingly to maintain a consistent shape.
Step 5: Again, check your work visually. Note the squareness of both the vertical and horizontal aspects.
Step 6: Return to the first side and continue with vertical sections back towards the round of the head, using your front sections as a guide. This will incorporate the hairline.
Step 7: Repeat this process on the other side.
Step 8: Now work with the centre-back and work vertical sections forwards to meet the previously cut side area. Be careful to overdirect to create a corner at the round of the head, which you will later refine.
Step 9: Repeat the same process on the second side.
Step 10: Next, use clipper-over-comb - blending from the bottom to the top of your instigated shape. Initiate this process in the front where the highest short point will be and work back, blending to a lower point as you progress.
Notice that Stacey uses his comb to mirror his initial shape. In this way you allow the initial shape to be refined to the appropriate lengths, employing a gradual refining process.
Step 11: Notice how Stacey works the comb and clippers together in panels, subtly refining the shape. Start this process in the front side areas, then move in panels towards centre back.
Step 12: Repeat this process on the second side.
Step 13: Stacey next refines with a scissor-over-comb technique, using a barbering comb which has fine teeth and flexibility. This allows stacey to work with the natural growth patterns, especially around the hairline.
Step 14: Next, bring down the top section and work a vertical section in the front hairline over the crown to the back vertical section. Cut a curved line longer in the front, working round and over the crown, getting shorter and connecting to the underneath lengths.
Step 15: Then work parallel sections from the centre down to your initial shape, using overdirection towards the round of the head, maintaining length in the temple areas.
Step 16: Repeat this on the second side.
Step 17: Now check and refine the crown area on both sides, eliminating any corners.
Step 18: Finally, use free-hand techniques to loosen the shape and create texture and movement.
Finish: The result is a neat tailored backdrop with flexible, moveable, over-hanging lengths for a diversity of styles.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also: How to cut a mid-length haircut for men