One-Length Bob

Step by step guide on how to cut a one-length box bob, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com. A fundamental and always popular salon hairstyle. The one-length box bob, cut with tension. A beautifully simple shape, full of discipline and technique.

Before: Lauren before the cut and color.

One length bob - How to section the hair

Step 1: Please note that although Stacey will work through the back in parallel sections, he chooses to section the back in two halves, for ease and symmetry. He will be working up the head with parallel sections. You will see later that once Stacey reaches the ear he will follow the section into the front hairline.

One length bob - Cut a square line with tension

Step 2: Starting in the nape, using a slightly curved horizontal section, cut a square line with tension. Start in the centre and work out on both sides. Choose a fairly large initial section to establish weight in your outline.

One length bob - Cut the hair with accuracy

Step 3: Continue with parallel sections up the head, with the same tension and using your previous section as a guide. Please notice that the head is tilted slightly. This allows you to cut your line with accuracy. Note that with the head tilted, it is important to follow the square line in relation to the head angle.

One length bob - Check and clean your cutting line

Step 4: After cutting your line, comb the hair and assess your shape aesthetically. Constantly check and clean your line.

One length bob - Check hair weight and balance

Step 5: Once you reach the top of the ear, check your weight and balance visually.

One length bob - Cut the entire back section

Step 6: Continue your parallel sections into the front hairline, with the same tension and using your previous section as a guide. Please note that Stacey cuts the entire back section before progressing into his first side area. His initial side section will be quite large in order to establish weight in the outline. This is dependent on hair quality.

One length bob - Maintain the square outline

Step 7: Use your scissors to pick up and lay the hair over the ear, tapping the bottom of the ear before cutting to allow for protrusion. Be careful to maintain your chosen square outline.

Step 8: Repeat this process on the second side.

One length bob - Check the cutting balance

Step 9: Next check your balance, visually and technically.

Step 10: Continue with this process on both sides until you reach your initial sections.

One length bob - Allow for the ear protrusion

Step 11: Please note when you check your line, there is a small corner that allows for the ear protrusion which must not be cut off.

One length bob - Work with two triangle sections

Step 12: Next work with your two triangle sections either side of the parting. Work with parallel sections and cut a square line with the same degree of tension and using your previous section as a guide. Please note that Stacey chooses to complete one side, then the other.

Step 13 Bring down the fringe area. Use a curved horizontal section, using the bridge of the nose and the corner of the temple as a guide. Cut your line, using your comb as a guide. Please notice how Stacey contains the hair in the comb as he cuts.

One length bob - Use fingers to cut the fringe area

Step 14: Continue with parallel sections throughout the triangular fringe area.
Notice how Stacey cuts through the comb and then cleans up in his fingers.

Step 15: Bring down your circular section in the crown and dry the hair, working from the perimeters through the back, then the outlines in the side, then the fringe and finally the top.

Step 16: Next iron the hair to create a finish, using the silver range of Coriollis C2's.

Step 17: Once the hair is dried, check your fringe.

One length bob - Point cut the crown area

Step 18: Then point cut the remaining crown area, using the underneath as a guide.

Step 19: Re-check with your model standing.

Step 20: Then check and clean your graduation throughout, using a mirror. This enables you to assess underneath the perimeter.

Finish: The result is a balanced bespoke one-length defined shape.

Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!

See also:

How to cut a short graduated bob

Step by step guide for an A-line bob

How to cut a graduated bob with aymmetry