Long Graduation with Pivoting Sections
Step by step guide on how to cut a long graduation with pivoting sections, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com. Long Graduation is the salon winner for the sexiest look. The result is a reduced commercial editorial shape, giving way to vibrant and beautiful curls.
Before: Aslihan before the cut.
Step 1: Begin with the front section, which runs from the centre parting to the nape. The section is slightly wider around the ear area, to accommodate the weak outline shape. This will vary in thickness, dependent on the hair quality.
Step 2: Elevate the hair and twist it in order to cut from short to long. Notice how Stacey increases his angle as he cuts. This technique enables you to cut the long lengths in a very technical manner, using over-direction and accuracy of hand and finger position for refinement of the line, rather than using disconnection.
Step 3: Continue with this process as you work this first section, taking manageable subsections with your fingers. As you work through this section, the angle of elevation is increased forward to maximize the outline length.
Step 4: Repeat this process on the second side for balance of texture and weight. Then check the internal shape, ensuring the concave shape is even throughout the perimeter.
Step 5: Return to the first side and work a section, pivoting from the centre parting across the round of the head into the nape. Take finger-size sub-sections, using the previous section as a guide and cut from short to long. Use maximum over-direction and elevation to create maximum length through the perimeter.
Step 6: In the thicker areas of the section, divide the hair into two for ease and control.
Step 7: Repeat this process on the second side. Please notice Stacey chooses not to mirror his body position on the second side but to stand on his first side to maintain his cutting angle. Always cutting down from short to long guarantees maintenance of length. Accuracy of body and finger position when cutting this shape is essential.
Step 8: Continually check the shape and balance, visually and technically.
Step 9: Continue with this process all the way into the back.
Step 10: In the thicker areas of the section, divide the hair into two for ease and control.
Step 11: Next, take a round section, which defines the perimeter. Work the outline by elevating the sections, creating a softer outline throughout the shape. Work from the side areas into the back.
Step 12: Bring down the circular crown area and take diagonal sections to refine and blend with the perimeter.
Step 13: Check through the crown and refine the corner to blend.
Step 14: Visually check the balance and weight.
Step 15: This haircut can be dressed in several ways. Here, Stacey chooses to tong the hair to create a clean, smooth finish to the cuticle.
Step 16: Starting with horizontal sections, tong even sections of hair, wrapping from ends to roots. This creates a more defined curl through the ends.
Finish: The result is a reduced commercial and editorial shape, giving way to vibrant and attractive curls.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also:
The Channel cutting technique for long curly hair
How to cut a long hairstyle
Basic concave layer hair cutting technique