Q: Can you lift hair just using a higher oxigenta with hair color? I am a cosmetology student and was wondering if you can lift
hair using color and a higher oxigenta, rather than pre-lightening? (Example: going from a level 6 to a level 8 or 9). Thanks.
A: The Oxigenta, or oxidant in English, is also known as the developer and is used to activate the coloring agents in permanent
haircolor. The most common chemical used as a color developer is hydrogen peroxide. The strength of the developer determines the amount
of lift in the haircolor. The stronger the developer (or oxigenta) used is, the more the original color is lifted in the haircolor
process.
We have an article that discusses haircolor levels and the use of peroxide developers (oxigenta) to
lighten the hair. You can see that article here.
There are some factors that can influence the amount of lift you can achieve with the
developer/haircolor mixtures. The first is the porosity or resistance of the hair. If the hair is resistant, you may not get as much
penetration in the lifespan of the haircolor mixture. {Haircolor mixed with a developer – or oxigenta – has a lifespan of approximately
30 minutes after which it becomes inert. This differs from bleaching mixtures as bleaching mixtures do not have a lifespan. As long as
a bleach/developer mixture remains moistened, it will continue to work lightening the hair.}
Another factor in the amount of lift that can be achieved in coloring the hair with a
haircolor/developer mixture is the application of heat to the hair during processing. Many hairdressers will place a client under a
warm dryer while the color is processing to ensure the maximum lift possible from the strength of the developer (oxigenta) used.
You can decide on the amount of lift you achieve in a haircolor process by selecting a stronger
developer. Just remember that the strongest versions of developer should be used with caution, as they are harsher to the hair. As
always, the condition of the hair must be taken into consideration before deciding on the chemicals used in a haircolor process. You
should always perform both a patch test, and a strand test to be certain that the client will not have a bad reaction to the color mix
and that the hair will survive the color process proposed.
