Q: What does the developer do? If I add more or less than the instructions say will it make a difference?
A: The developer in a mixture of haircolor does exactly what the name implies: it provides the chemical reaction that allows the
haircolor molecules to penetrate and be deposited into the shaft of the hair by causing the chemical color to ‘develop’. (You’ve
noted - I’m sure - that the color of your haircolor mix grows darker after you coming the color and developer.) Depending on the
strength of the peroxide of the developer, the developer also may lighten the base color of the hair in order to create a lighter shade of color.
The formulation and balance between hair color and developer is designed to use equal parts of each
separate mixture of components. Therefore two ounces of haircolor (which contains ammonia and oxidative tints (usually aniline
derivatives) is meant to be combined with two ounces of developer (hydrogen peroxide) this results in the oxidation of the aniline
derivatives which creates the color to be deposited into the hair. (The aniline derivatives combine with peroxide to form larger color molecules.)
When you use less developer than is called for, you will not get as much reaction from the
chemicals combined, which can result in duller color results and less penetration of the color. Using more, however, can dilute the
color and result in paler results that intended. The use of haircolors, however, becomes subject to an instinct as you work with them.
As you work on a particular client and learn how her hair responds to color, you can find yourself adjusting the color mix a small
amount depending on the needs of the situation, but overall you’ll rarely vary from the 1:1 color to developer ratio.