Advanced Haircolor Techniques (2)
Highlighting – Foils
Foil highlighting (as well as paper highlighting) on wavy hair isn't that different from with straight hair. The techniques are the same, but you want to make sure to gauge the thickness of the weaves you take for coloring or lightening to be in balance with the wave of the hair.
If you use weaves that are too thin, the results get lost in the waves. However, when the weaves are too thick, the results are streaky color that just looks outdated.
Again, with balayage highlighting applications, wavy hair needs to be considered carefully. You must gauge how thick you want the painted lines of color to be to keep them in balance with the overall look of the hair. If the lines are too thin, the resulting highlights will get lost in the bends and turns of the wavy hair. If the lines are too thick, you get a streaky result that isn't flattering and looks like a retro style.
Remember that the goal of balayage is to create lightness where you would normally find natural highlights, be sure to focus your efforts on creating brightness in the top and front of the hair, and keep your lines in the length thick enough to allow the waves to reflect the light to maximum effect.
Curly Hair
All-Over Color
Curly hair often appears less shiny and healthy, because the twists and turns of the hair strands as they curl only reflect light from the arcs that bend toward the light source. Because of this, you want to be sure to avoid using dull colors on curly hair, which would result in a flatter color result and minimize the shine that exists in the hair. Translucent color formulas and tinted gloss are ideal for making curly hair more vibrant and enhancing the shiny and healthy-look of the hair.
Of course, it is also important to make sure that you process curly hair carefully. Due to the way the hair grows, there are often "weaker spots" along the length of the hair shaft. When hair color is improperly formulated or over-processed (with regard to lightening formulas), these points on the hair can become fragile and can be places more prone to breakage. Before coloring curly hair, it is often a good idea to apply protein treatments or deep conditioning packs.
Highlighting – Foils
Foil highlighting on curly hair has the same considerations needed as are there with wavy hair. You must always make sure that the strands you separate in the weaving process are thick enough to be in proportion to the curl of the hair. The weave doesn't have to be the same size as a lock of curl, but should be large enough that the highlight enhances the look of the curl. Done correctly, the curl of the hair, and the highlights will work together to enhance the look far better than either of the elements alone.
Just remember that if the weave is too small, the highlights will be lost in the curl, but if they are too large, the effect could appear cartoonish and very dated. In addition, just as with the all-over color, make sure to process the color carefully, particularly with lightening processes. If you allow the color to damage the hair (because you used too-strong a developer, or over-processed bleaching formula) the hair could potentially break at the points described above.
Highlighting – Balayage
Since the goal of balayage is to create very organic (natural-looking) highlighting effects, the technique is well-suited to use on curly hair. The thick, creamy consistency or lightening formula is painted onto the lock of curl in stripes sufficient to be proportionate to the size of the curl. The painted-on technique allows the stylist to apply the color/lightener where the natural reflectivity would be most prominent on the curl and enhance the natural look of the hair.
Once again, though, be sure to use caution when coloring and lightening curly hair due to the potential damage to the weaker zones along the strands. Using conditioning treatments and protein packs before coloring/lightening the hair using balayage can help prevent damage.
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See also:
How to take the hair texture and density into consideration when coloring
How hair length can be a player in the hair coloring process