Reverse Long Graduation

Step by step guide on how to cut a reverse long graduation from Mark Smith, myhairdressers.com. A simple layered look. Commercial, accessible and youthful in essence.

Reverse long graduation - Before the haircut

Before: Jessica before the haircut.

Reverse long graduation - How to section the hair

Step 1: Create a central section from the front hairline, down over the crown into the nape, approximately 2 cm thick. The section size will be dependent on hair quality and density. This section will be the guide for the total internal shape.

Reverse long graduation - How to start the haircut

Step 2: This section is divided in front of the crown for practicality. Work with the back portion to start. Elevate and over-direct the hair and cut a line from shorter to longer towards the crown.

Reverse long graduation - Cut the front from shorter to longer

Step 3: Using the same elevation and angle, cut the front portion from shorter to longer towards the front hairline.

Reverse long graduation - Use pivot pie sections

Step 4: From this central section starting at the crown, use pivoting pie sections. Use the previous section as a guide and again the same elevation and over-direction.

Reverse long graduation - Pivot towards the front

Step 5: Continue with this technique, moving up the central section and pivoting towards the front, again using the same elevation and over-direction.

Reverse long graduation - Follow yur cutting guide

Step 6: Be careful to follow your guide from the previous section. Note that the internal shape can be varied by the degrees of overdirection and elevation.

Reverse long graduation - Cut hair with the right fingers angle

Step 7: Repeat this process on the second side. Please note to be aware of your finger and body position on the second side. On the first side your fingers are angled down...

Reverse long graduation - Angle fingers up while cutting

Step 8: While on the second side they are angled up for accuracy.

Reverse long graduation - Blow dry the hair

Step 9: Blow dry using a paddle brush, from roots to ends to smooth the cuticle.

Reverse long graduation - Use straightening iron

Step 10: Now refine the finish with a set of straightening irons.

Reverse long graduation - Cut with a free hand technique

Step 11: Next use a free hand technique to loosen the internal shape.

Reverse long graduation - How to section the fringe area

Step 12: Section the fringe area, working with a triangle section from the round of the top of the head to the temples.

Reverse long graduation - Cut the fringe with a pointing technique

Step 13: Use a pointing technique to cut one side of the fringe.

Reverse long graduation - Cut the second side of the fringe

Step 14: Repeat this process on the second side.

Reverse long graduation - Refine the fringe

Step 15: Now refine the fringe, using elevation and a pointing technique.

Finish: The result a simple layered look. Commercial, accessible and youthful in essence.

Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!

See also:

How to cut hair with the long graduation technique

How to cut a long haircut

How to cut a long salon friendly hairstyle