Invigorating Haircut
Step by step guide on how to cut a short and soft invigorating haircut with basic uniform layer, pivoting sections and disconnection, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
This basic layer demonstrates a simple method of working with over-direction on the outlines, combined with a flawless headhugging internal balance to produce a soft but invigorating haircut.
Before: Monica before the cut.
Step 1: Work from a centre section from the crown to the front hairline. Then work pivoting pie-sections from the crown all the way around the head.
Step 2: For accuracy, work sections on both sides of the head first, then work through to the back.
Step 3: Take the initial section from crown to front hairline and elevate it vertically, cutting a square line.
Step 4: As you reach the front of this section, leave out the hairline approximately 2cm wide. You will leave out the entire hairline as you work around the head.
Step 5: Continue working pivoting sections, using previous sections as a guide, for approximately three sections leaving out the hairline. Cut parallel to the head shape.
Step 6: Then repeat the process on the other side. By working in this manner, Stacey enables himself to work on proportion, balance and accuracy.
Step 7: Return to the first side and continue with this process to just behind the ear. Be careful to judge how much hair to leave out around the hairline near the ear, depending on hair quality.
Step 8: Then repeat this process on the second side.
Step 9: Next work from the same point in the crown, again pivoting the sections, cutting parallel to the head and leave out the hairline using your previous section as a guide.
At the bottom of each section, slightly elevate the hair to allow you to blend with the longer disconnected outline. Work these sections to the mastoid area.
Step 10: Then crosscheck your work, assessing the proportion and balance between the front and back side areas.
Step 11: Repeat this process on the second side and this time continue the sections all the way to the centre back.
Step 12: Next, return to the first section, working from the mastoid area to the centre back.
Step 13: Crosscheck and refine the internal shape through the back.
Step 14: Dry and finish the hair.
Step 15: Now refine and connect the hairline visually, using appropriate freehand techniques.
Step 16: Next, connect the centre back technically, creating a flatter internal shape through the centre.
Step 17: As you work towards the ear, over-direct back to the centre, leaving length behind the ear.
Step 18: Repeat this process on the other side.
Finish: A simple method of working with overdirection on the outlines, combined with a flawless head-hugging internal balance to produce a soft but invigorating haircut.
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
See also: How to cut a short graduated shape haircut with disconnection