Hair Curving Inward
Q: It was a treat visiting your website! Queries are so well answered. Please tell me how to get a cut in which hair curves inward up until the ears and then feather out at the lower end.
What is this cut called? I have tried explaining it to my hairstylists. They do understand what I want, but are always disappointing. Please help! I desperately want to wear this cut.
A: From what you are describing, it sounds as though the problem perhaps stems more from a styling issue than from a cutting standpoint. The curve and flip of the hair is determined by the wave pattern in the hair.
In cutting, however, I can recommend that you make sure the stylist textures the hair properly, to give the ends of the hair a feathered effect. This is generally best achieved through point-cutting.
I can suggest a styling method that could help you achieve the style you describe. (See the graphic.) In this method, you should use magnetic rollers (or other rollers if you prefer) and wrap the hair in the upper regions overhand, directing it toward the tops of the ears. As you get to the hair below the top of the ears, begin winding the hair underhand so that you continue to wrap the rollers toward the top of the ears.
The size of the rollers used is important: The rollers should be large enough that the hair winds around the roller one complete turn but no more. It may be necessary to use end papers (as with a perm) to secure the ends of the hair, but often a styling gel will give the hair the adherence you need. You want to avoid using rollers sized so that the hair winds around them multiple times as this just creates a curlier look.
In some cases the amount of curl needed can be created using a large barrel curling iron, and in wavy hair types, you can even create the look using a blow dryer and round brush.
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See also:
What does feathering mean and is it possible to feather your own hair?
Roller styling techniques
How to create a medium curly hairstyle with rollers
A what's what guide to curling irons