Strong Root Growth Patterns & Cowlicks

Difficult hair
Photo: Victoras/Shutterstock
Q: I've been thinking about growing out my hair recently, but I have very strong root growth patterns and multiple cowlicks that have always been a nightmare to deal with. For years, I've kept my hair short specifically because of this issue.
 
I've tried using gel and mousse in the past to style my hair, but the hold never lasts more than two or three hours before everything starts sticking up again. Is there anything I can do to help control my hair while it's in the growing-out phase, or am I destined to have completely wild hair until it gets long enough to pull back into a ponytail?
 
A: You're definitely not alone in this struggle. Many people with strong growth patterns and stubborn cowlicks feel trapped in short hairstyles because they're intimidated by the awkward growing-out period and the unruly appearance that often comes with it. The good news is that you have several options beyond just waiting it out or relying on temporary styling products that lose their effectiveness throughout the day.
 
One of the most effective solutions for your situation is a professional straightening or relaxing service specifically designed to redirect your hair's natural growth patterns into a more manageable configuration. This isn't about achieving pin-straight hair necessarily, but rather about gently coaxing your hair to grow in directions that work with your desired style. Modern chemical straightening treatments have come a long way from the harsh processes of the past, and there are formulas available for every hair type.
 
The process typically involves using a thio-based permanent wave formula, but instead of creating curls, it's applied to relax and reconfigure your hair's growth pattern. The chemical breaks down the hair's natural bonds temporarily, allowing a stylist to manipulate the direction your hair wants to fall. A neutralizer is then applied to reset these bonds in the new, more cooperative pattern. While this won't permanently change how your hair grows from the follicle, it will make the existing hair much easier to manage as it continues to grow out.
 
The beauty of this approach is that you'll only need touch-up treatments as new growth emerges and begins to reassert the original stubborn growth patterns. Depending on how fast your hair grows, this might mean a visit every six to eight weeks, focusing just on the new growth at the roots rather than processing your entire head each time.
 
Beyond chemical treatments, there are several other methods that can help you navigate the growing-out phase more successfully. First, consider investing in high-quality styling products specifically formulated for strong-hold situations. Look for pomades, styling creams, or gels that are designed for all-day wear and resistant hair types. Many professional-grade products offer significantly better longevity than drugstore alternatives.
 
Your cutting schedule during the growth phase is also crucial. Rather than avoiding the salon entirely while growing your hair out, plan regular maintenance cuts every four to six weeks. A skilled stylist can trim and shape your hair in ways that work with your growth patterns rather than against them, gradually transitioning you from short to longer styles while keeping everything looking intentional rather than unkempt.
 
Heat styling tools can also be your friend during the growing-out phase, though they should be used judiciously to avoid damage. A good blow dryer with a concentrator nozzle can help direct airflow to smooth down cowlicks as your hair dries. Round brushes of various sizes can help train your hair to fall in more favorable directions.
 
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See also:
 
Get rid of a cowlick
 
How to manage cowlicks and whorls