Perm to Restore Curl

Long hair with curl
Photo: Andriano/Shutterstock
Q: About eight months ago, I permanently straightened my hair using {brand name removed} treatment (not the Japanese method). I also had touch-ups for new hair growth as needed. Unfortunately, I experienced significant hair loss afterward and had to undergo medical treatment. Thankfully, the shedding is now under control.
 
My last touch-up was in November. Since then, the new growth near my forehead has come in curly again, which is my hair’s natural texture. However, the rest of my hair - especially the lengths - remains straight and flat, creating a very uneven look. I really want to restore my curls and discussed this with a stylist at my salon. She suggested perming only the length of my hair to add waves, avoiding the roots and scalp, which is important to me because I want to minimize the risk of further damage.
 
Do you think perming just the length is a good idea, considering the top portion of my hair has already returned to its natural curl? And are there any essential tips I should follow before going through with the perm?
 
A: It’s a great sign that your hair is starting to regain its natural texture at the roots, and you’re right to proceed cautiously. {brand name removed} treatment has become quite popular, and fortunately, it’s based on thioglycolate, an active ingredient commonly used in both straightening and perming solutions. That’s good news, because it means your previous treatment is chemically compatible with most perm solutions, so you’re unlikely to encounter a reaction between the two processes.
 
However, there are still a few important things to keep in mind before you move forward. First and foremost, a strand test is absolutely essential. Since your hair has already been chemically treated, your stylist needs to assess how a small section of it responds to the perm solution. This will help determine how long the perm should process and whether your hair can tolerate it at all. Skipping this step could result in over-processing, severe damage, or patchy results.
 
You also need to consider the current condition of your hair. If it’s still fragile from the effects of previous treatments or medical issues, it might not handle another chemical process well. Ideally, your hair should be in reasonably strong and healthy condition before undergoing a perm.
 
In the weeks leading up to your appointment, it's wise to invest in deep conditioning treatments. Use a rich, moisturizing conditioner - preferably one with proteins like keratin or amino acids - and leave it on for about 20 to 30 minutes. Cover your hair with a plastic cap to lock in heat and enhance absorption. For an even deeper effect, wrap your head in a heated towel or sit under a bonnet dryer for 10 to 15 minutes, then rinse with cool water to seal in moisture.
 
When you go to the salon, expect your stylist to start with a clarifying shampoo. This helps remove any buildup, minerals from hard water, or leftover medication residue. Because clarifying shampoos can be drying, it's important your hair is already well-moisturized before this step. Your stylist will likely adjust the strength of the perm solution or reduce processing time to accommodate your hair’s chemical history and condition.
 
After the perm, remember that your hair will have been through two major chemical processes: first the straightening and now the perm. That means it’ll need extra care. Use sulfate-free shampoos to preserve your hair’s natural oils, and apply a leave-in conditioner or hydrating spray regularly to combat dryness. Try to avoid heat styling for at least a week after the perm to prevent additional stress, and schedule regular trims to keep split ends from traveling up the hair shaft.
 
If you do notice any brittleness or excessive dryness following the perm, ask your stylist about a protein treatment or bond-rebuilding service to help strengthen the hair again. With the right preparation and aftercare, perming just the lengths to blend with your curly roots can be a safe and effective way to restore a more uniform, natural-looking texture.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
Perms and perming
 
How to care for chemically treated hair