Apple Pectin Perm Disaster

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Q: My mom's apple pectin perm was a complete disaster. I accidentally used the bottles in the wrong order. How long should I wait before attempting to perm her hair again?
 
A: If your mom's hair wasn't severely damaged by the reversed process, you may be able to attempt another perm after waiting about a week to ten days. However, the key word here is "if". You'll need to carefully assess the condition of her hair before making any decisions about re-perming.
 
Start by doing a thorough evaluation of her hair from the scalp all the way down to the ends. You're looking for telltale signs of chemical damage such as excessive dryness, unusual frizziness, split ends, breakage, or hair that feels rough or brittle to the touch. If you notice any of these warning signs, it's best to hold off on re-perming until you've given her hair some intensive deep conditioning treatments over the course of several weeks.
 
Pay particular attention to how her hair feels when it's wet. Healthy hair should feel smooth and elastic when damp, but damaged hair often becomes spongy, mushy, or overly stretchy when wet. If you notice this kind of texture change, absolutely do not attempt another perm until a professional stylist has evaluated the hair's condition. This spongy feeling is a clear indicator that the hair's protein structure has been compromised, and adding more chemicals could cause serious damage.
 
The extent of potential damage really depends on how long the chemicals were left on her hair during the initial process. In a typical perm, the waving lotion is applied first. This is the chemical solution that breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair shaft, which are the bonds that give hair its natural shape and strength. When you reversed the order and applied the neutralizer first, you likely didn't break down these bonds effectively, which explains why the perm didn't take properly.
 
The neutralizer, which is usually a hydrogen peroxide-based solution, can be more potentially damaging than the waving lotion, but for different reasons. When hydrogen peroxide is applied to hair, it can lift the hair cuticle and break down the pigment molecules within the hair shaft, which is why it's commonly used in hair lightening products. This action can leave hair more vulnerable to further damage. In a proper perm process, the neutralizer is applied after the waving lotion to use oxidation to reform and lock in the new disulfide bonds that create the curl pattern.
 
Since you applied the neutralizer first, your mom's hair was exposed to the potentially damaging effects of hydrogen peroxide without the protective benefit of having the hair's structure properly prepared by the waving lotion. This could have left her hair in a weakened state, even if the perm didn't take.
 
If you have any doubts about the hair's condition or if the damage seems extensive, it's worth investing in a consultation with a professional colorist or perm specialist. They can perform strand tests and give you expert advice on whether her hair is ready for another chemical process, potentially saving you from a second disaster and preserving your mom's hair health in the long run.
 
©Hairfinder.com
 
See also:
 
Perms
 
How long should you wait until you get another hair perm?
 
How long should I keep on the perm waving solution and the neutralizer?