Thinning Shears for Fine Hair

Q: I have a client who's interested in getting a haircut similar to her friend's style, which was apparently done with thinning shears. The look she's going for is kind of a pixie with flippy layers that turn back. My client has fine hair, and I've been working with notching and chipping techniques at the ends to add some texture. I'm thinking that adding highlights might help create more visual dimension and depth.

Her friend mentioned that her stylist used thinning shears specifically to achieve this look, though her friend isn't a professional stylist herself. If I were to use thinning shears for this cut, would I complete the basic haircut first and then go back through each section with the thinning shears, working about halfway up the hair shaft and near the ends?

A: You're absolutely right to think carefully about your approach with thinning shears, especially when working with fine hair. The technique you're describing is indeed a common and effective method for creating texture and movement in shorter styles like the pixie cut your client is envisioning.

Generally speaking, thinning shears are most effectively used after the primary haircut has been completed. This allows you to see the overall shape and weight distribution before making decisions about where to remove bulk or add texture. The post-cut thinning process gives you much more control over the final result and helps prevent over-thinning, which can be particularly problematic with fine hair.

Your instinct about working halfway up the hair shaft and near the ends is spot-on for creating that flippy, textured movement your client wants. This placement helps maintain body at the roots while encouraging the hair to separate naturally at the mid-lengths and ends. When working with fine hair specifically, this technique can create the illusion of fuller, more dynamic hair by breaking up any blunt lines that might make the hair appear flat or lifeless.

Without being able to see the specific haircut your client is referencing, it's challenging to provide exact instructions. However, the approach you're considering should definitely help you achieve a similar textured look. The key is working systematically and conservatively, especially since fine hair shows the effects of thinning more dramatically than coarser hair types.

Most professional stylists who regularly incorporate thinning shears into their work maintain at least two different types in their toolkit. The first type features fine, closely spaced teeth that remove approximately thirty to thirty-five percent of the hair with each cut. These are ideal for subtle texture work and general bulk removal, making them perfect for fine hair like your client's. The second type consists of notching or chunking shears with larger, more widely spaced teeth. These are better suited for creating dramatic texture in thicker, coarser hair or for achieving intentionally choppy, edgy looks.

For your client's fine hair and the style she's requesting, you'll want to stick with the finer-toothed thinning shears. These will give you the subtle texture and movement you're after without creating too much separation or making the hair appear thin and stringy.

When it comes to technique, remember that shorter hair typically requires fewer passes with the thinning shears than longer hair. For a pixie-style cut, you'll usually only need one strategic snip per section, placed carefully to encourage the desired movement. Longer hair might require multiple snips along the length of each section, but with shorter styles, less is more.

Your idea about adding highlights is excellent and shows good understanding of how color can enhance a textured cut. Highlights will create visual depth and dimension that works beautifully with the piece-y texture created by thinning shears. The interplay of light and shadow created by both the dimensional color and the varied hair lengths will give your client's fine hair much more visual impact and apparent fullness.

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See also:

How to use thinning shears

What's a good number of teeth in one sided thinning shears?

Can you explain how to cut wispies at the neckline?