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Partial Coloring Through a Cap

Q: I have brown hair. I just had my hair pulled through a cap. The stylist used Kaliedocolors in blue. The color is great, but the bleach did not go to the root and I now have spots like polka-dots on each side when I pull my hair back. What should I do to get rid of them? Also, what should I tell her to prevent it next time?
 
A: Well, you have to bear in mind that most bleaching formulas used to lighten the hair for coloring processes are designed for off-the-scalp use, meaning that they are sufficiently strong to potentially damage the hair if allowed to sit on the scalp. If the stylist used a lightener before the color the cap would be the easiest method to safeguard the scalp from harm.
 
      However, even if there was no lightening stage, it’s obvious that using the cap didn’t allow for the color to reach sufficiently to the scalp. The better option would have been to use a foiling technique for applying the color. This generally allows for application of the color much closer to the scalp and more realistic coloring results.
 
      You should ask your stylist to use foiling techniques for future color retouches and to correct the current color issues you have. If he/she cannot perform the foil technique, ask him/her to recommend a stylist who can. Bear in mind, however, that the foil color technique is a much more labor-intensive process and is generally more expensive than partial coloring through a cap, so discuss the additional costs with your stylist.
 
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